Nelson

Nelson grew on silver from the 1880s and built in brick and stone on a steep slope above the west arm of Kootenay Lake; when the mining money went, the town did not have the growth to demolish and rebuild, and a restoration programme from the 1970s brought the frontages back rather than modernising them. Around three hundred and fifty heritage buildings survive, including a courthouse and city hall by Francis Rattenbury, who designed the Victoria legislature. From the 1960s the Kootenays drew draft resisters, back-to-the-landers and artists, and Nelson kept an arts and counterculture character. Steve Martin's film Roxanne was shot here in 1987.

What you actually see

• The heritage frontages - about 350 restored buildings on a steep grid.
• The Rattenbury buildings - courthouse and city hall by the legislature's architect.
• The restored streetcar - a heritage tram running along the waterfront.
• The arts scene - galleries, studios and music in a town of ten thousand.

When to go

May to September for the streetcar and lake; winter brings skiing at Whitewater nearby. The town is at its busiest in July and August but never overwhelmed.

Honest expectations

The streets are steep and hard walking. The streetcar runs a short seasonal route only. Nelson is remote, several hours from any large centre on mountain roads.

Nearby

Kaslo lies north up the lake; Sandon is west in the mountains.