Manoka Island

Manoka lies in the maze of mangrove channels and sandbanks in the estuary south of Douala, an island with a fishing community that supplies the city's markets, reached only by boat across open water and through the channels. The settlement is built on sand, with houses on stilts in places, smoking racks for fish, and boats drawn up along the shore. Around it the mangroves are extensive and the channels are used by fishermen who know them. The waters hold manatee and marine turtles, though seeing either is unlikely. It gives a direct sense of how much of the Cameroonian coast lives, which the road system does not show at all.

What you actually see

• A working fishing island - the community supplying Douala's markets.
• Mangrove channels - the waterways through the estuary.
• Fish smoking racks - the processing done on the shore.
• Houses built on sand and stilts - the settlement on the island.

When to go

December to February in the drier months, when crossings are more comfortable. A day. Boats are arranged at the Douala waterfront and prices are negotiated.

Honest expectations

The crossing is in an open boat on water that can be rough and safety equipment is often absent. There are no visitor facilities on the island. Mosquitoes and malaria risk are serious. Negotiate the boat price and the return before leaving.

Nearby

Douala is north-east; Douala-Edea park lies south.