Smolyan

Smolyan runs for about ten kilometres along a valley in the central Rhodopes under the Snezhanka ridge, formed by joining several separate villages, which is why it has no real centre and stretches so far. It holds the largest planetarium in Bulgaria, a regional museum with a strong collection on Rhodope life, music and costume, and an art gallery. Above the town lie the Smolyan lakes, a set of small tarns in the forest with walking routes between them, and the Snezhanka tower on the ridge, reached from Pamporovo, gives a view over the whole range. The town is the base for the central Rhodopes and for the ski area at Pamporovo a short distance north.

What you actually see

• The largest planetarium in Bulgaria - shows in the town centre.
• The regional museum - Rhodope life, music and costume.
• The Smolyan lakes - small tarns in the forest above the town.
• The Snezhanka ridge - the tower and the view over the range.

When to go

May to October for walking and December to March for skiing at Pamporovo. Half a day in the town. Museums close on some Mondays. Planetarium shows run to a timetable.

Honest expectations

The town is strung out over ten kilometres with no centre, which makes walking impractical. Much of it is socialist-era concrete. Planetarium shows are in Bulgarian unless arranged. It is a base rather than a destination.

Nearby

Pamporovo is north; Shiroka Laka and Gela lie west.