Sao Joao del Rei

Sao Joao del Rei is larger and more ordinary than Tiradentes down the line, which is part of its appeal - a functioning city with its colonial centre still in daily use. The Sao Francisco de Assis church, with a facade and carving attributed to Aleijadinho, stands above a square of imperial palms; the Carmo and the cathedral are nearby. What makes the place distinctive is musical: two lay brotherhood orchestras, the Ribeiro Bastos and the Lira Sanjoanense, have played continuously since the eighteenth century, keeping a repertoire of Minas colonial sacred music alive and performing it in the churches it was written for, particularly through Holy Week. The bronze bells of the churches are rung in coded patterns that the town still reads.

History

The town was founded in 1713 and named in honour of King John V of Portugal; its founder is held to be the bandeirante Tomé Portes del-Rei. It began as a staging post on the Estrada Real, the trade route from the coast at Paraty to the towns of central Minas Gerais such as Ouro Preto and Mariana, and later large amounts of gold were found near the town itself (Wikipedia, São João del-Rei).

What's there

• Sao Francisco de Assis - Aleijadinho carving above a square of palms.
• Two eighteenth-century orchestras - brotherhood ensembles still playing.
• Colonial sacred music in situ - the Minas repertoire in its own churches.
• Coded bell ringing - patterns the town still reads.

When to go

Holy Week for the music; April to September otherwise. Two days.

Good to know

The city is workaday around the historic core and traffic is heavy. Church opening hours are short and vary. Holy Week fills the town and services are long. Musical performances are not scheduled for visitors and need local information to find.

Nearby

Tiradentes is twelve kilometres away by steam train; Congonhas is north.

Key facts