Sadarghat River Port

Sadarghat is where Dhaka meets its river, a stretch of the Buriganga bank in the old city handling a very large volume of passenger traffic on launches heading down the delta to the south, and it is one of the busiest inland river terminals anywhere: thousands of people a day, triple-decked launches loading and unloading nose-first at the bank, porters carrying loads on their heads, and a constant traffic of small wooden rowing boats crossing between the two sides for a few taka. The noise and density are the point. Taking one of those small boats across and back gives the best view of the whole thing. The Buriganga itself is severely polluted, which is the other unavoidable impression.

What you actually see

• Triple-decked launches loading - the delta boats nose-in at the bank.
• Small boats crossing the river - hand-rowed ferries between the banks.
• Porters working the terminal - loads carried on and off by hand.
• A very large volume of traffic - thousands of passengers a day.

When to go

November to March. Two to three hours. Late afternoon and early evening are the busiest and most striking. Boats to cross are hired at the bank for a few taka.

Honest expectations

The Buriganga is severely polluted and the smell is strong. The terminal is genuinely crowded and pickpocketing happens. Foreign visitors attract a great deal of attention. Boat operators overcharge; agree the fare first.

Nearby

Ahsan Manzil is a short walk; the old city lies north.