Old Dhaka

Old Dhaka, the historic heart of the Bangladeshi capital, is one of the most vibrant, chaotic and sensory places in South Asia, a teeming maze of narrow lanes packed with rickshaws, bazaars, workshops and humanity. Amid the frenetic bustle stand its historic gems: the elegant riverside Ahsan Manzil, the pink Pink Palace, the unfinished Mughal Lalbagh Fort, and the ornate Star Mosque with its glittering tilework. Down at the Sadarghat waterfront, an astonishing throng of ferries, launches and river boats crowds the Buriganga River, a spectacle of raw, relentless energy.

What you actually see

• Lalbagh Fort - the unfinished seventeenth-century Mughal fort.
• Ahsan Manzil - the elegant pink riverside palace.
• The Star Mosque - the ornate mosque of glittering tilework.
• Sadarghat - the frenetic river ferry terminal and waterfront.

When to go

November to February, the cool, dry season, is by far the most comfortable time to explore, as the summer is brutally hot and humid and the monsoon brings heavy rain and flooding; even in winter, the old city is hot, crowded and intense. Early morning is calmer for the monuments and river.

Honest expectations

Old Dhaka is overwhelming: one of the most crowded, chaotic, noisy and polluted urban areas on earth, with dense traffic, heat and constant sensory overload, so it demands patience, energy and an appetite for raw, unfiltered city life rather than comfort or polish. It is not an easy destination. For the sheer, exhilarating vibrancy of its street life, Mughal monuments and river spectacle, though, it is unforgettable and utterly alive.

Nearby

The wider capital, the Sonargaon old town and the river towns are within reach.