Arnhem Land

Arnhem Land covers around ninety-seven thousand square kilometres of the Top End east of Kakadu, held under Aboriginal freehold title since 1976 and home to Yolŋu and other groups whose languages, ceremony and art traditions are among the most continuous in the world. The country ranges from the stone escarpment to floodplains, rivers and a coast of islands, with rock art galleries in shelters used over tens of thousands of years. Injalak Hill at Gunbalanya, reached from Kakadu on a permit day trip, has some of the most accessible art, with an art centre below. Garma, a Yolŋu cultural festival, is held at Gulkula each August. Access is controlled and dependent on permits.

What you actually see

• The rock art - shelters painted over tens of thousands of years, including Injalak Hill.
• The art centres - bark painting, weaving and carving sold at community centres.
• The escarpment country - stone plateau, waterfalls and floodplains.
• The Garma festival - the Yolŋu cultural gathering held each August.

When to go

May to October; the wet season floods roads and the East Alligator crossing to Gunbalanya, cutting access entirely. Permits take time to obtain and are issued for specific routes and dates. Garma falls in August and books out.

Honest expectations

This is private Aboriginal land, not a park: permits are compulsory, often limited, and travelling without one is trespass. Most visitors go with licensed tour operators. Alcohol is restricted or prohibited. Photography rules vary by community and must be respected.

Nearby

Kakadu lies west across the East Alligator River; Nhulunbuy is on the eastern coast.